A stylish and delicious izakaya called “Hakone Irori-yaki Kumosuke” has opened in Hakone-Yumoto, so I decided to pay it a visit right away!
The term *kumosuke* often conjures up images of unscrupulous laborers who preyed on travelers; however, it originally referred simply to palanquin bearers and porters along the highway—a name derived from their lifestyle of drifting from place to place like the clouds. The *kumosuke* who worked the “Hakone Hachiri” route—a stretch of road famously described as the most treacherous in the land—performed grueling labor, and the ranks were likely filled with rugged, dependable, and spirited characters.
“Hakone Irori-yaki Kumosuke” features an exterior that evokes the atmosphere of those old-fashioned mountain-pass teahouses. Outside the entrance, there is a bench with *kasuri* (splashed-pattern) cushions, while the interior offers tables arranged around traditional *irori* sunken hearths. Counter seating is also available, making it comfortable for solo diners to enjoy a meal without feeling out of place. With a menu showing prices displayed outside and no mandatory *otoshi* (table charge/appetizer) fee, it is a trustworthy establishment with transparent pricing—true to the name “Kumosuke” in a positive sense. (Note: A one-drink order is required during dinner hours.)
The drink menu offers a full range of alcoholic beverages and soft drinks, including local specialties like Shonan Gold beer, Ashigara tea-infused highballs, and Soga plum wine. Shonan Gold is a sweet-and-sour citrus fruit unique to this region that pairs perfectly with beer; if you are a beer lover, I highly recommend giving it a try.
The food menu features chicken dishes, hot-spring-steamed items, *ate-maki* (sushi rolls designed as snacks to accompany drinks), soba noodles, and more. You can also enjoy a truly satisfying meal with “Chef’s Specials” that highlight local fish caught in Odawara. The photo shows the various dishes we ordered. While everything was delicious, I especially recommend the “Negitaku-Torotaku” (if available) and the grilled chicken (*tori-yaki*). “Negitaku-Torotaku” consists of pickled radish rolls (*oshinko-maki*) topped with a generous mound of green onions and fatty tuna (*toro*). It might be a seasonal item, but it is definitely worth trying.
Please note that while some menu items include English subtitles or photos, the rest are in Japanese only. However, there are staff members fluent in English, so please feel free to ask them for recommendations.
Closed Thursdays; open 11:00 AM – 9:30 PM; 12-minute walk from K’s House Hakone (3 minutes from the station); accepts credit cards and various barcode payment methods.
